Editorial
During the last meeting of the GLCC (Global Leather
Coordinating Committeee), held in Hong Kong
last March on the occasion of APLF, the three constituent
organizations: ICT (International Council of
Tanners), IULTCS (International Union of Leather
Technologists and Chemists) and the International
Council of hides, Skins and Leather Traders Association,
continued with the discussion of projects
faced in collaboration.
The attendants to the meeting discussed the
strengths and weaknesses of the Leather Industry.
The key leather characteristic (and main strength)
is it is natural, renewable and beautiful.
However, we see there is a lack of information or
incorrect information provided to the consumers
about the leather industry and the leather itself, leading
to his replacement by other synthetic or artificial
materials, making it appear they are "environment friendly products."
One of the arguments used is "Carbon Footprint
of Leather" and more recently still, "Water Footprint
of leather".
The Carbon Footprint is based on the calculation
of the total sets of greenhouse gas emissions, calculated
as carbon dioxide equivalent (CO2) expressed
in tonnes, that are directly or indirectly emitted into
the atmosphere each time a certain action is performed.
This analysis covers all life cycle activities of a
product (from procurement of raw materials to disposal
as waste), measuring the contribution of each
of these activities to global warming, allowing consumers
decide what to buy based on the pollution generated
as a result of the processes carried out.
The methodology applied until recently to calculate
the Carbon Footprint of leather, included cattle
breeding, which negatively impacted the Carbon Footprint
of leather since it is known that cattle throughoutthroughout
his life, produces carbon dioxide and methane.
However, as the main objective of raising cattle is
not getting leather, but the production of meat, animal
skin, which then will be leather, turns from being
waste to be a byproduct of other industry input.
Therefore, the current position to calculate the Carbon
Footprint, held by Federico Brugnoli, international
expert in the field, responsible for writing
UNIDO technical report on leather and carbon emissions
is, the Leather life cycle starts where the animal
is slaughtered, not including the breeding of cattle.
Thus, the leather, Carbon Footprint is substantially
smaller revealing the positive impact that the use of
the skin of cattle have on the environment, because
if not processed, the disposition of the same as waste
involve a high environmental negative impact.
Cotance is promoting a pilot study to calculate the
Carbon Footprint in different countries, which is supported
by major organizations related to the leather
industry worldwide.
Lic. Patricia Casey - Presidente
Letter from the editor
In IULTCS International Congress, which took
place last May in Istanbul, Turkey, 66 technical and
scientific papers and 97 conference as posters were
presented.
As in previous Congresses, it is clear the interest
and concern of the Institutes, Universities and research
centers for further study of clean technologies
and production processes environmentally friendly.
On the other hand, there is concern about there is
no official list of Restricted and Prohibited Substances
for leather, associated with test methods suitable
for proper detection.
Leather Exporters frequently receive from their
customers the requirement to issue statements concerning
restricted and / or prohibited substances, accompanied
by certificates of analysis showing
compliance with established tolerances.
Unfortunately, on many occasions, the long lists of
restricted and / or prohibited substances include several
ones that are not present in any type of leather
because chemical inputs used in the production process
does not contain and because they cannot be
the result of a chemical reaction happens during the
process.
Nevertheless, it must justify his absence by analysis.
Add to this the fact that some big brands, ask the
suppliers to make the determinations of some substances,
applying chemical analysis methods developed
for other materials such as plastic or fabrics
which lead to erroneous results and, in some cases, they make a business failed.
The tanning industry should get as much information
as possible from their suppliers of chemical inputs,
in order to be sure what they are using in their
process and thus avoid the use of chemical substances
that can cause health problems for users or for
the environment, as well as, controlling the production
process to minimize the risk of any unwanted
chemical reaction from occurring.
But on the other hand, it is imperative to narrow
the list of restricted and / or prohibited substances in
leather, and that’s the reason why IUC Commission
(IULTCS chemical analysis) is working hard and has
already issued a draft that will be submitted soon to
the ISO Committee.
It will include recognized testing methods for leather,
thus avoiding false positives that may impair
the image of the leather and the industry that produces
it.
Lic. Patricia Casey - Presidente |